Paco Rabanne Autumn-Winter 2022/2023: Textures, metallic dresses and a guided meditation
El primer show de la nueva temporada ha mezclado la evasión con las sensaciones y la búsqueda de paz a través de siluetas muy definidas y preciosistas y un juego de tejidos hipnótico
El Paco Rabanne de Julien Dossena lleva varias temporadas saltándose el calendario oficial de las semanas de la moda.It is not the first to do so, and the decision continues to be logical for whom the times are tight and do not want to be mired in the stressful maelstrom that can assume those dates.A feel overwhelmed that reminds what (almost) anyone can experience in the middle of a crowd in the big city.And in both cases, there is a first solution: breathe deeply and connect with the here and now. Justo lo que ha propuesto Dossena en la colección de otoño-invierno 2022/2023 de Paco Rabanne.And he has done so in a sublime way through hypnotic silhouettes and textures.
In this collection, Dossena explores a "elusive intersection between technical and sensual through different volumes and textures". Una investigación que también se condensa en las"percepciones sensoriales"y cómo estas pueden cambiar.How do they do it in the middle of the routine, in the middle of the asphalt, of the nature that appears between the buildings.Of a multicolored sunset.Therefore, the Instagram filter with which Paco Rabanne gave an advance of what would be the theme was based on changing color, so the different sensations and emotions are linked to a specific tone. Los mismos que han envuelto a los pocos invitados que han tenido el privilegio de ver de cerca la aproximación de Dossena a una moda que es delicada y potente a partes iguales y que explora, entre otros términos, "la plasticidad, el fetichismo y la forma", la "redefinición de las formas que ciñen y revelan" y "los contrastes de mate y brillo".
Con lo que podría ser una meditación guiada para principiantes como banda sonora, los looks de otoño-invierno 2022/2023 de Paco Rabanne han empezado a emerger como si escapasen de un baúl que ha sobrevivido al paso del tiempo: la "crudeza de los 90" se une a los pliegues de muchas de las minifaldasy los vestidos cortos recuerdan a la silueta del polisón, ese armazón interior que reemplazó al miriñaque a finales del siglo XIX.
More references to that period are in curly necks, in some pleated;They are mixed with metallic everlasting, which more than the classic mesh level, have displayed an aqueous quality that reminds of the molten leg and gold.And although they have had an outstanding presence in the last short dresses and even as interwovers and details of other pieces, those fabrics have not been the absolute protagonists: all the others have been.
It is almost impossible to make a complete list of all the fabrics that have appeared in the dossena collection, because precisely in them the creative director of the firm has reflected those sensations that have spun the speech.Who has not experienced comfort when wrapping in a fluffy sweater or a soft cardigan?Who has not felt that spark of joy when covering his body with a sequin dress?
"The contrasts, both expected and unexpected, transmit a subtle fetish feeling, linked to the process and provocation," they count from the firm."Motaded fabrics and slippery sequin surfaces contrast with brightness and mate", a fact that is also reflected in the union of "the metal mesh and the point in a single tissue".
The bet of dossena for Paco Rabanne collects that idea already present during previous seasons of searching the public and visualmaximum possible so that the viewer can no longer visualize them, but feel them without having to be present in a room.And this time, the objective is fulfilled.
The 'paillettes' have mixed with the Mohair, the 'casual' of a Rebeca, with the special of those skirts with reminiscences to the polisón;The simplicity of a smooth sweater, with the romanticism of a white XL collar with English embroidery.The controlled but prominent volume of the hips (and sometimes of the structured shoulders), contrasts with a tight and marked waist, without half inks.A very defined silhouette that has been repeated as Leitmotiv and that can remind traditional and normative femininity but that, however, has nothing flash.
The body that has been seen to the rhythm of those deep breaths and the "right now" that sounded like mantra can remember everything and nothing.Some temporary and aesthetic references have already been mentioned, but the magic of the creative director (as with all good creatives) is to add something, a secret ingredient that transforms it into something that does not resemble anything that has been seen, inWhat is to come.And that future has part of escapist, precious, avant -garde, of happy nostalgia, of optimism.Of "futuristic heroines".
If so, if it is with these garments: that autumn arrives already.Let the tomorrow come.
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