Le Labo, the epitome perfume brand of 'cool'

After two years of no news, the New York DNA cult firm has just presented a new fragrance.

By Ores Lario

Ten years ago, when the fragrance industry experienced a marketing driven boom supported by advertising campaigns with the faces of celebrities, the independent firm Le Labo quietly launched its fifth fragrance, completely alien to the impact of the chameleon nature of perfume. Santal 33 quickly became the epitome of the cool, a kind of cult secret, whispered through bursts of sandalwood and cedar, only detected by those who knew him. This scorched, warm and spicy unisex perfume since it was born in 2011 became an instant success among those seeking to free themselves from commercial perfumery and was described as an absolute trend by the New York times. Sophie Turner loves this fragrance, Joe Jonas also uses it, as do Brad Pitt, Emma Roberts, Justin Bieber and Alexa Chung, who has confessed to his passion for this perfume with the essence of sandalwood, Egyptian papyrus, leather, Virginia cedar, cardamom, violet, iris and amber.

Behind this cult firm are the New Yorkers Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi, who met working for a great multinational in France and who, tired of the frantic rhythm of the market and the demands of marketing, decided to create a brand of "soulful" perfumes, in which they returned to the old-fashioned perfumes, which causes the aromas to move to places and experiences, through perfumes that last, that are truly personalized, unique and recognizable. In 2006, they opened the doors of their first store in the Nolita neighborhood and now have outlets around the world.

Le Labo, la marca de perfumes epítome de lo ‘cool’

The whole New York firm's approach to perfumery seems contrary to how we live. Le Labo takes advantage of the innate need to slow down the pace and the model works. The change already begins in the production methods: from the manual collection of the petals of the roses cultivated in the French Grasse to the customization of the bottles of minimalist aesthetics that are displayed in the shops. Sprayed in bodies, luxury hotel lobbies such as Gramercy Park Hotel, and boutiques, the aromas of this brand are a recognizable (and predictable) presence both in New York's most in restaurants and in the small Parisian cafes or crowded bars in London.

Le Labo is genderless, cruelly free and has a permanent range of 19 aromas called fine Fragances. It also offers a collection of body and hair care, a collection of shaving and barbershop products and a collection of candles and aromas for the home.

Each fragrance of Le Labo is a snare that takes the consumer on an olfactory roller coaster, as the aromatic notes change throughout the day. In its famous Santal 33, made with Australian sandalwood, it is the other 33 notes that make it special, so it smells different and unique to each person. In its famous Santal 33, made with Australian sandalwood, it is the other 33 notes that make it special, so it smells different and unique to each person. Similarly, the 31 notes in rose 31, a flower that is usually said to be of a feminine nature, mark it as a very masculine fragrance. "our art is deeply rooted in" slow perfumery. " In our laboratories, each fragrance is made in a handcrafted way using fresh ingredients, and each label is customised, "they explain from the firm that has its own point of sale on Fernando VI Street, in Madrid. The shop follows the same aesthetics as in all its establishments: industrial touches of Brooklyn, sobriety and good French taste, and decoration inspired by Japanese Wabi-Sabi philosophy ("the beauty of the imperfect"), with vintage furniture and pieces that show that what is used is, often, the most beautiful.

After more than two years without presenting any new aromas (they launch news when they feel it and not when the market demands it), it has just presented a fragrance. His new creation is called Thé Matcha 26, and according to his creators, "it is much more than an aroma for us. It is a moment of introspection, an instant of observation that offers a quiet inner celebration of grace and beauty of the soul. "