The temples of Bagan, the new World Heritage Site of Myanmar
Marco Polo was the first Western traveler entranced by the wonders of Bagan. "They shine like a thousand fires" he said of the pagodas and stupas of the plain, which then numbered more than 13,000. And "they form one of the most beautiful paintings in the world." Seven hundred years later, the description is still accurate. Today, the number of temples has been reduced to a third, but it is still a prodigious figure: 4,446 temples spread over 42 square kilometers. Most of the temples can be visited, although the effort to visit them is usually limited to the main ones. Among them, the largest of all, the Dhammayangyi Pahto, built in the twelfth century by a king who wanted to achieve enough merit to make up for the fact that he had killed his father, his brother and his wife.
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The situation of Bagan, next to the Ayeryarwady River, the fluvial artery of the country; its relatively hot and dry climate, the fertility of its soils and the proximity of a sacred place for centuries, Mount Popa, made Bagan the capital of the most important Burmese kingdom. King Anawratha, in the eleventh century, was the main promoter of the wonders of Bagan, then called Pyu Gam.
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ARCHAEOLOGICAL ENCLOSURE
To walk around Bagan, today, it is best to enter the archaeological site through the door closest to the Ananda temple, considered by the first British travelers "the Burmese Westminter abbey" and characteristic for its pointed golden stupa. Ananda is one of the few temples that still keeps sculptures of the Buddha inside. In general, the interiors of the temples of Bagan do not host ornate riches. The spaces designed to stimulate meditation stand out. Sometimes there are altars for the nats, the spirits of nature, and corners to pray before the protective symbols of the day of the week on which one was born.
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THE MOMENT OF SUNSET
The wonders of Bagan shine especially brightly when the sun goes down. Seeing the sunset in this plain dotted with temples, which rise above a red earth and seem hidden among the tropical vegetation, is to witness a prodigious spectacle, one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. As an observatory, it is advisable to choose well the top of a temple that is not crowded with tourists. The Buledi temple, for example, could be a good option.
THE VISIT
To explore Bagan, it is best to use, first, the services of a horse-drawn carriage – they meet next to the Ananda temple – and travel with it the main roads of the enclosure. Then, you can rent a bicycle, the most advisable way to get around this marvelous plain.
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AND A PLUS… CLIMB MONTE POPA
This mount was a sacred place for the Burmese even before the first stupa in Bagan was erected and it still is. It is an extinct volcano, whose summit reaches 1500 meters high. Its greatest singularity lies in the verticality of its walls, which define what may be the most representative icon of the country: the silhouette of the mountain crowned by a monastery that is accessed after climbing 777 steps. The top is home to the nats, the spirits of the mountain, according to tradition.
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PRACTICAL GUIDE
HOW TO GET
Several countries in Asia and Southeast Asia have direct flights linking their capitals with Yangon, Myanmar. Regular airlines Air Bagan, Air Myanmar and Myanmar Airways and other charters connect, in 1 hour and 20', Yangon with Bagan, often with a stopover in Mandalay, a flight for which a visa is required, which is requested in advance at: evisa.moip.gov.mm.
HOW TO MOVE
The archaeological site where most of the ancient Bagan temples are located requires a ticket to enter, which costs around €15 and allows unlimited access for 5 days.
Inside the enclosure, you can walk, rent a bicycle, a mountain bike, an electric motorcycle or a horse cart. The horse-drawn carriage ride to watch the sunset from the top of a temple costs around €15 per person.
The most visited temple to watch the sunset is usually the Shwesandaw Pagoda. The port of Bagan, on the Ayeyarwady River, hosts luxury cruise ships from the Belmond company (belmond.com).
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WHEN TO GO
The most recommended time is from November to March, when temperatures are not high and there is practically no rain in the rest of the country.
WHERE TO SLEEP
One of the best and most famous hotels is the Bagan Thripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort (thiripyitsaya-resort.com), a regular residence for celebrities who visit Bagan. Very interesting, for its good value for money and its excellent location is The Hotel @ Tharabar Gate (tharabargate.com). Also notable, due to their location, overlooking the river, are the hotels Aye Yar River View Resort (ayeyarriverviewresort.com) and Bagan Hotel River View (kmahotels.com/bagan-hotel-river-view)
WHERE TO EAT
Near the Ananda temple, one of the most visited in Bagan, is the Sarabha restaurant, a classic, which offers Chinese, Burmese and Vietnamese specialties in its two premises, with a good level and cheaper prices than those of restaurants in the Hotels. Yar Pyi Vegetarian, also near Ananda, is one of the best vegetarian in the area, where the Star Beam Bistro and the highly sought after Be Kind to Animals The Moon are also highly recommended.
To read also:
The ten most spectacular monuments in Asia
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