Schiaparelli's collection sums up how fashion is bought (and understood) in 2021
ANALYSISAt least part of it. Daniel Roseberry's proposal for the historic house condenses the experts' predictions: basic pieces and impressive jewels
By María José Pérez Méndez
A Schiaparelli collection is usually synonymous with surrealism, delirium and creative extravagance without floodgates. “A surrealism written with joy”, as maintained by Daniel Roseberry himself, designer of the historic house who has picked up the witness of a creator who did not understand functional limitations when designing her pieces. A spirit that seems to remain intact today, since, according to Roseberry, “all of us who love fashion understand that there is an uneasy marriage between design and sales. Often sales must win. That is why I love working for a Couture house, where creativity still defines the mission and is never treated as secondary.” This vision could be counterproductive for the business, and yet, right now, it would be the most aligned with it. At least, according to the experts.
Buyers of luxury multi-brand stores have been detecting a very clear purchasing pattern: basic pieces that can complement special jewellery. "People are looking for little treasures that are destined to last a lifetime," Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa's purchasing director, told Vogue Spain. “Jewelry is relevant due to teleworking and video calls in which society has found itself involved. In the end, it's not just having a pretty top," Hsu reels, "but pairing it with cool earrings or an amazing necklace makes you look good on screen." And although she has not mentioned digitization, that maxim of simplicity and extravagance is what has moved Roseberry when designing the Schiaparelli autumn-winter 2021/2022 collection. "The insistent boldness of the decorative elements is juxtaposed with understated elegance," explains Roseberry. “Composed almost entirely of a palette of black, ivory white and navy blue tones, the collection is intended to be a canvas, a series of uniforms that the woman who wears it can decorate as much (or as little) as she wants.”
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This proposal of neutral tones is made up of a good cast of tweed pants and jackets, but also of all kinds of dresses, both in little black dress format and in evening, pink and hooded format. In this wardrobe there are also (more or less) traditional jacket suits, and another with a houndstooth miniskirt; there are trench coats and formal pattern coats, shirts, jeans and some knitwear. Clothes that, in short, could seem basic and that, however, treasure “irreverent” silhouettes. But what is truly crazy is in the jewels, one of the great strengths of the firm in past collections and a fundamental pillar for next fall. "It's dedication to the unexpected, the risky, the exuberant" can be found "in jewelry, oversized pendants, earrings and rings that combine Dadaist absurdity with swaggering proportions." There are padlocks, flowers, locks and, of course, almost any part of the body that can be imagined, since the female anatomy is once again the inspiration for accessories that lose their literal conception to become protagonists.
"That fascination with body parts extends to our embellished pieces inspired by busts and the female breast," says Roseberry. "At other times, they are more robust, as if it were a protection: serious with self-awareness." Both those embellishments and those found on the garments themselves "are a tribute to the body itself (its beautiful sculptural quality, its amazing forms)". Rings in the shape of teeth are some of the most outstanding pieces, with the exception of earrings and brooches that take the shape of human ears, noses, eyes and lips, in a new chapter of figurative jewelry. They are the ones that (without losing sight of the connection with art) further extol garments in neutral colors, whether in a maximalist version, such as the look with leather pants and bra, or in a minimalist version, as in the case of the long black dress. “The pieces allow freedom of expression, whether that means a cry or a sigh,” explains Roseberry, summing up well how fashion is now understood and bought. At least part of it.
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