Crochet: the fabric that was the 'poor' version of lace and now the famous use it
Madrid, May 13. (EFE).- Since Jane Birkin married a crochet dress, this artisanal technique has captivated Jennifer Aniston, Rihanna or the Duchess of Cambridge, but also Generation Z, a fan of sustainable fashion, and luxury firms who opt for a slow, romantic, bohemian fashion with lots of light.
Crochet is synonymous with summer, vacations and a relaxed spirit that is contextualized in the hippie era; And, of course, you cannot ignore "that sweet and familiar atmosphere in which women met in the afternoons to do homework," explains Alicia Hernández, fashion expert and founder of the multidisciplinary trend space Valyty.
The pandemic and confinement have helped to value sustainability, slow fashion and especially crochet, that love for the work that grandmothers and mothers have practiced so much.
The boom has been important and many young people have recovered that artisanal value by creating unique pieces, a current that jumps from the home to the street, as Ella Emhoff, daughter of Kamala Harris, who loves to make crochet garments and accessories, shows in her networks.
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The fashion sector has become aware of the interest aroused by crochet and proposes dresses, cropped tops, skirts, vests, bikinis or crochet bags, as seen in the work of the Italian Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, or in that of Gabriela Hearst, Uruguayan designer, at the head of the French firm Chloé.
The origin of crochet is located in the Arab, South American and Chinese practices, but there is no reliable evidence until it became popular in Europe in the 16th century.
The first written references appear in the book The Memoirs of Highland Lady, by Elizabeth Grant, and until recently it has been considered a home craft and female entertainment, although for some women it was a help in the household economy.
It was considered the poor version of lace until Queen Victoria broke a spear in her favor and, in addition to buying crocheted lace, she learned to weave.
Now, there is a real craze for crochet. Just look at the proposals from Botegga Veneta, Altuzarra, Jil Sander, Isabel Marant, Fendi or Celine, which offer artisan garments that draw on retro aesthetics and the recycling of old garments.
For several seasons, Dolce&Gabbana has been presenting garments made in crochet and Loewe too, although now it is turning the screw and incorporating this technique into its designs, creating new models or only including details in its leather creations.
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The pioneer of this trend was Jane Birkin, who in 1969 attended the Union of Artists Gala in Paris wearing a daring white crochet dress with a pronounced neckline that fell to the navel, a model that was fastened with a strategic brooch. .
From that moment on, the protagonist of La Piscina (La piscine, 1969) became a bohemian icon and a source of inspiration for other women. Brigitte Bardot, star of And God Created Woman (Et Dieu créa la femme, 1956), joined this trend when she appeared at the famous Le Privé club in a fabulous white crochet dress.
Rihanna poses on her social media in an alluring crochet dress. A technique by the Spanish firm María Ke Fisherman —formed by the creative duo María Lemus and Víctor Alonso— has opted for it in collaboration with the Carmelite nuns of a convent in Huelva.
Lady Gaga or Miley Cyrus have worn crochet creations by these young designers.
Jennifer Lopez, Katie Holmes, Lindsay Lohan, Christina Aguilera, Paris Hilton, Halle Berry, Eva Longoria, Marion Cotillard or Sophie Turner are some of the celebrities who have joined the crochet craze.
